A shout out to Elijah Wood and Sean Austin

We climbed Mount Doom. Because we are crazy.

Okay, it's not actually called Mount Doom. It's Mount Ngauruhoe (pronounced Nare-a-hoo-ee). And it is part of the Tongariro Crossing which is apparently considered the best day hike in New Zealand. But it is the volcano that acted as Mount Doom in Lord of the Rings. And if Elijah Wood and Sean Austin (Frodo and Samwise) actually climbed it, they certainly have my respect.

So here's the story. We booked it to Picton to catch the ferry on Monday and then got stuck in traffic leaving Wellington. Their rush hour extends along the major state highway leaving town for like an hour. It's pretty crazy. We stopped to visit a Kiwi friend of our parents' and her daughter who had picked us up at the airport. Lovely people - I wish we'd had more time to visit with them. After our visit we still had a few hours drive to our lodge. We got there around 11 which wouldn't have been too bad if we didn't have an 18 km hike planned for early the next morning. We caught the sleep we could and then we were off to do the Crossing. It was originally something we'd planned to leave out of our itinerary until every single traveller we met said it was their favourite thing they'd done on their holiday. Back into the itinerary it went.

Anyway, true to form we hadn't really read any of the brochures or found out anything about it except that it wasn't a loop and we needed transport. While driving to the start of the track our driver described a couple of the side trips (New Zealand is all about the side trips) and said that if we did any of them we'd need to make up time on the "easier" parts because we only had 8 hours before he'd be at the other side to pick us up. There were 2 other older couples in our van and none of us figured we'd do any of the side trips as they were fairly difficult scrambles up the summits of two of the volcanoes and took about 2-4 hours each.

I don't know what gets into me and Jess. We are 2 hours into the hike, having just completed the Devil's Staircase (the hardest part of the regular track). Because the area is all volcanic it really does look a bit like what one would imagine Hell might. (Very Mordor-ish for you LOR fans). Anyway, it was a good 50 minutes of climbing for us. Everyone stops for lunch at the top of the staircase which is also the spot where you can veer right and climb straight up Mount Ngauruhoe. It's all loose shale and volcanic rock. And there is steam coming out of the top. It takes 2 to 3 hours to climb and 30 minutes to descend. Because you basically scramble down the loose shale. The thought completely terrified me. But for some reason I'm like, "Hey Jess, we should do this" and she agreed. I would have chickened out about 10 minutes in if she had not been ahead of me. It was probably the hardest most terrifying hiking thing I've ever done. With every step up you slide 3/4 of a step back. And I was so petrified of the scramble down that my whole body was shaking. And you'd grab a rock and sometimes it would hold and sometimes it wouldn't. At some points, I was basically crawling (you should have seen how covered with dirt I was by the end - hilarious). It took us just under 2 hours to get to the top. We could smell the sulphur and see the steam. We sat to eat half our sandwhich. My bottom was quite warm, and kept getting warmer and warmer and warmer. When I finally stood up, there was steam coming from where I'd been sitting. Incredible experience.

The scramble down took about a half hour and was way less scary than I had been expecting and other than sheer exhaustion and 6 more hours to hike (with only 3.5 hours to do it). I can't believe we did it. We caught up and passed the other 2 couples (who weren't as crazy and hadn't done the extra climb) and made up a lot of time in the next hour and a half. At the "2 hours left" sign, Jess ran the entire rest of the way down because she was determined to make it within the 8 hours. And she totally did. I was about 20 minutes late (still mighty respectable) but still caught a ride. The other two couples were 2 hours behind us by this time. Everyone in New Zealand asks "are you fit" to us all the time and we are never sure how to answer (obviously we don't look it). After that day, we felt we could say that we are definately reasonably fit.

Anyway, we spent today in the Coromandel Peninsula at Opoutere Beach (beautiful) and now tomorrow we go to Fiji. My time is up so that's all I can write. Talk to you all when we get home.